Visiting Langkawi - What to eat and drink in Langkawi, Kedah

Langkawi,(Jawi:لانكاوي ) officially known as Langkawi, the Jewel of Kedah (Malay: Langkawi Permata Kedah) is an archipelago of 99 islands (an extra 5 temporary islands are revealed at low tide) in the Andaman Sea, some 30 km off the mainland coast of northwestern Malaysia. The islands are a part of the state of Kedah, which is adjacent to the Thai border. On July 15, 2008, Sultan Abdul Halim of Kedah had consented to the change of name to Langkawi Permata Kedah in conjunction with his Golden Jubilee Celebration. By far the largest of the islands is the eponymous Pulau Langkawi with a population of some 64,792, the only other inhabited island being nearby Pulau Tuba. Langkawi is also an administrative district with the town of Kuah as the capital and largest town. Langkawi is a duty-free island.

Legends of broken pots and seeping gravy

Langkawi's most prominent mountains, Gunung Macinchang and Gunung Raya, and a whole series of towns and villages are said to named after a local legend. The story tells the tale of a wedding between two families of giants, with Mat Raya's son wanting to marry Mat Cincang's daughter. During the wedding feast, a fight broke out between the two wedding parties, reputedly because the son was caught flirting with another woman.

During the fight, pots and pans were thrown, and a large pot of gravy (kuah) was broken and the contents flowed onto the ground. The place where the gravy was spilled became known as Kuah (the largest town on Langkawi island) and where the crockery (belanga) was broken (pecah) was location of the village Kampung Belanga Pecah. The gravy seeped into (kisap) the earth at the village named Kisap.

Understand

The name "Langkawi" has two possible origins. First, it is believed to be related to the kingdom of Langkasuka, itself a version of the Malay negari alang-kah suka ("the land of all one's wishes"), centered in modern-day Kedah. The historical record is sparse, but a Chinese Liang Dynasty record (c. 500 AD) refers to the kingdom of "Langgasu" as being founded in the 1st century AD. Second, it could be a combination of the Malay words 'helang', meaning "eagle" and 'kawi', meaning "reddish-brown" or "strong", in old Malay.

Langkawi eventually came under the influence of the Sultanate of Kedah, but Kedah was conquered in 1821 by Siam and Langkawi along with it. The Anglo-Siamese Treaty of 1909 transferred power to the British, which held the state until independence, except for a brief period of Thai rule under the Japanese occupation of Malaya during World War II. Thai influences remain visible in the culture and food of Langkawi.

Langkawi remained a sleepy backwater until 1987, when the island was granted tax-free status with the intention of promoting tourism and improve the lives of the islanders. The following boom was spectacular and now Langkawi figures on most every European travel agency's radar.

This spectacular boom was also due to the fact that Mahsuri's curse was lifted with the birth of her 7th generation descendant.

Sheltered by the mountainous backbone of Peninsular Malaysia, Langkawi escapes the northeastern winter monsoon entirely and enjoys sunny skies in winter when the eastern provinces are flooded. Coupled with natural white sand beaches, lush jungle foliage and craggy mountain peaks - but hampered by inaccessibility - the island was at one time touted as "Malaysia's best-kept secret".

The 10,000 hectares of Langkawi and its 99 islands were declared a Geopark by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) in 2007.

Eat

Practically all resorts have their own restaurants and most tourists choose to eat in, but there are a few other options as well. Be adventurous and strike out on your own to savour the numerous foods at the stalls and restaurants all over Langkawi. Try one of the many seafood restaurants. Having said that, beware of certain restaurants advertised in the brochures targeting tourists. An example of such restaurant is the 'Coco Beach Restaurant', close to the airport.

If you choose order seafood or fish, take note if the price is by weight or by a set price for the dish. The unwary can be hit with a much larger bill than expected. Also, beware of restaurants telling you that they only have the bigger size lobsters available, as that is what they tell everyone (a common practice at Coco Beach Restaurant and Palm View Restaurant, at Pantai Cenang). When your lobster or crab is served, you will discover that you will definitely be paying for 900g of shell instead of meat! To counter this, order fish, squid and prawns to be safe.

Budget

For a taste of simple Malay-style breakfast, just walk up to a small stall opposite the Underwater World in the mornings and feast on the famous freshly-prepared banana leaf-wrapped nasi lemak (steamed rice in coconut milk). The price is most affordable at less than RM 2 for a pack. Go local and enjoy this with a glass of hot teh tarik or really good local coffee. This very unassuming stall is just simple and great (clean too!) The nasi lemak comes with curried beef, squid in chili, friend salted fish or chicken.

* AddaMaya Café, (Pantai Cenang (near Haji Ramli's; or opposite Nadia's Comfort Inn)). - small, cosy place for meals and coffee. The chef can whip up great meals - from local dishes to western fast food easily (and in that little cabin of his). Problem is, it can get a bit dusty as it is located fronting the main road. Locals like to come here for good food at reasonable prices. edit

* Rafi's Place, (sandwiched between Restoran Aliah's and Tomato Nasi Kandar on Pantai Cenang). Rustic shack. No visible signboard either but ask around and you will find Rafi's. Rafi is a Penangite but has been on the island since 1988 so he considers himself very much local. Ask him for recommendations and he'll happily tell you. Ample parking space in front of his 'shack'. Good ambiance especially early mornings. nasi lemak (RM3), local tea and coffee (RM1).

* Tomato Nasi Kandar, (Opposite Langkawi Boutique Hotel). Typical budget Indian food establishment with patrons all day (and night!) long. Very crowded even in the wee hours of the morning. They serve an enormous variety of dishes, from the flavoured roti varieties to naan, briyani and kebabs. The standard is quite high - to an extent where the meal is extremely value-for-money. The only problem is that their waiters are exceedingly bad at taking orders. RM1-3 for roti, RM 4-10 for main dishes. edit

* Restoran Fatimah, (Near the Kampung Tok Senik Resort on the road to Ulu Melaka). Try this for really authentic Malay food. Their lunch spread is amazing - so amazing that they attract bus loads of Malaysian visitors. Just enjoy the food and leave your cultural baggage and complaints behind as you will be in a totally different ambiance but friendly, nevertheless. edit

Mid-range

* Artisans Pizza Cafe, (Pantai Cenang). Offers freshly cooked pizzas with both traditional and Malaysian toppings. The satay pizza and sambal pizza are particularly good. You can dine in or takeaway and they also deliver to guesthouses and the beach. Their house specialties: Hungarian Gnoulash and Madam's Fishbake are particularly awesome. RM 15 for main courses. RM 30-38 for 11 inch pizzas. edit

* Babylon Mat Lounge & BBQ, (Right on Pantai Cenang). Mats are laid out on the sand for guests to sit on and there is a a low table with a candle. They also have a live band or playlist that is passed off as a DJ. Some travellers have expressed concern about the over-friendliness of staff toward female patrons and have complained about poor service. edit

* Breakfast Station, (A couple of minutes walk from Restoran Haji Ramli). Lunch starts/breakfast ends at 12PM. Great Balinese decor, rustic with cozy ambiance. Fantastic and fantastic Nasi Lemak. The Western spread is a pleasant surprise. Best omelette in town. Lavazza Coffee for RM4. edit

* Beach Garden Resort's Beer Garden, [23]. Happy hour from 15:00 - 19:00PM. Offers 1st class Western & Malay dishes in a stylish holiday - beach atmosphere. Superb wine selection, draft beer and German wheat beer (own import) as well as cocktails. edit

* Cenang Boat Quay, Pantai Cenang. Offers a variety of Pizza, German Sausages, Pasta, local dishes and fusion food. Opening in April 2009 is a Grill Fish hawker. The concept here is by individual hawker selling the different styles of food. Amazing Sunset view at the Quay. A Must TRY!! edit

* Champor Champur, Pantai Cenang. Moderately wacky fusion food in a fusion setting courtesy of a Dutch-Malaysian couple with an affinity for Africa. Great ambiance - feels like eating in an outdoor garden. edit

* Difiqa, (Pantai Cenang, close to Red Tomato). Great for tasting Roti Canai at breakfast with some very spicy dips as accompaniment, Less than RM5 for 2! Great tasting local coffee and fresh fish too. edit

* Fat Mum Restaurant, Pantai Tengah, ☎ 012-4707863. Just up the road from Awana Resort. Great authentic local Chinese seafood restaurant, good food for a reasonable price.

* Hole in the Wall Fishfarm & Restaurant, Kilim River, northeast part of the island (Call for free shuttle), ☎ 049675301, [24]. Floating on the river, part of the amazing scenery of the Kilim Mangrove Forest. They serve the freshest Malay style seafood you will be able to eat on Langkawi island. The traditional dishes of freshly caught fish, prawns, crab, lobster etc. are famous.Shuttle service from Kilim jetty to the fishfarm restaurant and return is free of charge for lunch and dinner guests. If you book a Mangrove Tour, you will most definitely end up having your lunch here. However, you may want to give their package buffet a pass and try their dishes. edit

* Restoran Haji Ramli, (Pantai Cenang). Open till 1AM. Your Nasi Campur haunt by day and run-of-the-mill Tom Yam shack by night. 'Ikan Bakar' - Grilled fish and other fresh seafood a'la carte after 3PM. Fresh terubuk (shad) which is unheard off in the mainland! Grab a couple of fist-sized prawns and cuttlefish (squid) cooked Tom Yam style for a gastronomical lesson in local seafood. Their seafood dishes average 4-4.5 RM per 100g, and they can be cooked in a myriad of different styles that will surely suit your tastes. Meat dishes vary from 6-12 RM. RM 10-20 for a complete meal. edit

* Malay House, (Pantai Tengah). Offers good but not necessarily authentic Malay food in an atmospheric garden full of lush greenery, water features and exotic art. edit

* Mimi, (A few minutes walk from Underwater World, on the opposite side of the road.). Greatest 'Ikan Bakar' or grilled fish with tantalizing self-made sauce. . Also offers a variety of traditional Malay dishes like tomyam and 'ayam masak merah' (chicken cooked in non-spicy sauce). Snapper or grouper RM4 per 100 gram. edit

* Oasis, (Pantai Tengah/Cenang). A great beach hangout serving western meals and drinks. It comes alive in the evenings.

* Orkid Ria Seafood Restaurant, Lot 1225 Jalan Pantai Cenang, ☎ +6049554128, [25]. 11am-3pm. Dinner: 6pm-11pm. Some tables having water views. They have fresh seafood displayed out front. Choose from a wide range of cuisines, including dishes prepared in Malay, Thai, Chinese, and Western styles. edit

* Rasa Restaurant, (Pantai Cenang). Good Malaysian food with reasonable prices. Seating available outdoor in courtyard overlooking main road or inside. edit

* Red Tomato Garden Cafe, (Pantai Cenang, in front of AB Motel), ☎ +60125136046. Saturday to Thursday from 9:00am to 10:30pm, Closed Friday.. Free WiFi. Look out for the owners red mini parked in front of the place. Has great western breakfast and lunch menus, and pasta and pizza for dinner. Home made bread, good choice of cheeses. Gluten free pasta is available. Free WI-FI! Owned by a German lady. edit

* Rose Tea 2, (Pantai Cenang). Outstanding Thai food. Great price and great service. Closed on Friday.

* Sun Cafe, (Pantai Tengah), [26]. A friendly and relaxing restaurant that offers a variety of Western food, Italian food, and Malaysian food. They also serve a range of hot and cold beverages - from cappuccino to milkshake, from fruit juice to mocktail. If you love fish, try their Fillet of Barracuda. It's light and healthy. They are also open for dinner too. It is a great place for a delightful meal or a casual conversation over a cup of coffee. edit

* Taj Mahal, Landcon Square (opposit Zon Shopping Mall). Huge open sided restaurant (also has an air-con room opposite for hot days). Specialises in Arabic and North Indian dishes all of which are very healthy, very tasty and very cheap. Very popular with locals and with Indian and Arabic holidaymakers. Great place to just sit around for a few hours occasionally ordering another batch of fresh flat breads and dips. edit

* T. Jay's Italian Bistro & Pizzeria, (Pantai Cenang, Opposite Underwater World), ☎ +6049553995. 8.00am to 11.00pm. Though this place looks a little sleepy, they make some great wood-fired pizzas. T Jay's Special pizza is recommended.

* Telaga Arabic Cafe and Restaurant, (Pantai Cenang). The same kitchen serves an indoor dining area and a large outdoor area across the street. Good good with reasonable prices. Stay and enjoy some of the best hookah/shisha (tobacco water pipe) smoking anywhere. edit

* Tulsi Garden, Pantai Tengah. Good Indian food (northern and southern). You may even get to talk to the owner, Palani on some nights. Quiet place to have dinner and chat with friends. Best part is you can ask the chef to tone down the chili or spiciness levels. edit

* USSR Restaurant, (Telaga Harbour Park). Russian fare. Waterside restaurant with tables overlooking the harbor. Managed by Russian expats who serve up the real deal. edit

Splurge

* Feast @ Sheraton, [27]. International buffet and ala carte menu. A varieties menu from unique local cuisine to western dishes. Choose to dine inside in air-conditioned environment or having your dine at terrace while enjoying the nature environment overlooking the Andaman Sea. edit

* La Sal at Casa del Mar, (Pantai Cenang, on the beach), [28]. As expected on holiday, dining is a relaxed, quality experience at your Home by the Sea. Food offers the best in Modern Asian and Western Cuisine with a focus high quality fresh produce and is served by attentive and friendly staff. The bar offers a wide variety of wine from the old and new worlds. The cocktail list is exciting and innovative with themed cocktails around our magical sunset, pool side relaxation and post dinner period. edit

* The Light House, (The edge of Pantai Tengah). Fantastic food on the beach wonderful views edit

* The Loaf, LOT NO. C9 Perdana Quay (Telaga Harbour Park), ☎ +6049594866, [29]. 8AM to 11PM; closed Thursday. Japanese style bakery & bistro owned by Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamed, ex-Prime Minister of Malaysia. Quality breads and full meals. Amazing view of the harbour and the yachts especially if you have your breakfast al-fresco outside. Attentive staff. Try Tun's Favourite Breakfast set (2 softboiled eggs, a bowl of mutton curry and thick toasted bread) with coffee and orange juice. Good place to have a leisurely breakfast. Bread from RM4. edit

* Mare Blu, (Perdana Quay, Telaga Harbour Park), ☎ +6049593830, [30]. The only authentic Italian restaurant on Langkawi island. The restaurant offers typical Italian food, good wines and draft beer. The Mediterranean style surrounding is just beautiful and the tables are set up right on the waterfront. edit

* Papadam, (Pantai Cenang (Near Underwater World)). Indian restaurant that also serves Arabic food. edit

* Sunsutra, Jalan Teluk Baru (Pantai Tengah), [31]. Fine dining restaurant that serves great Western food too. If you're a big fan of lamb, you must try their lamb shank. Tender and full of flavours. Its portion is huge too! Good for someone who wants a hearty meal. edit

* Unkaizan, Lot395 Jalan Telok Baru Pantai (Near to Awana Porto Malai), ☎ +6049554118, [32]. 6pm-11pm. Japanese restaurant, with excellent food and wonderful service! edit

Drink

Because of Langkawi's tax-free status, alcohol is much cheaper than in the rest of Malaysia. Religious Muslims do not consume alcoholic drinks, and while they do tolerate non Muslims who do, try not to behave in a rowdy imbibed manner near them, their houses, mosques, and please respect local culture and communal sensitivities. For those living on a budget, you can obtain alcohol at cheap prices from the local duty free shops - the larger the outlets, the lower the prices. Expect to pay RM 25 for 1L Absolut, RM 45 for 1L Kahlua, RM 60 for 1L Bailey's RM 1.85 for 330ml can beer.

* Chime Nightclub @ Sheraton, [33]. Takes on a complete personality change and is Langkawi’s hottest night spot, starting with “sun-downers” on the terrace. Features night live entertainment with stunning performance from musician band while DJ spinning the music all night long. edit

* Little Lylias Langkawi, Beach Bar

* Sunba Retro Bar, Jalan Teluk Baru (Pantai Tengah), ☎ +6049531801, Until 3AM.

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