VISITING KUCHING - What & where to eat in Kuching: Sarawakian dishes

Found an article about what to eat in Kuching.

Eating out is the major pastime, with a huge variety of eateries and food available. Most places are pretty cheap with excellent service but the more local, the less English spoken. Be sure to sample some Sarawak laksa, but beware - it's considered a breakfast dish here and the popular places sell out fast. For the local Chinese, kolo mee, a noodle dish served with slices of roasted pork, is also a daily staple. Although most places are quite clean, there are some which are not. A rule of thumb is if you're not comfortable with it, then walk somewhere else. There are plenty to choose from!

Sarawakian dishes

Unlike fellow Malaysians in Peninsular Malaysia and Sabah, the range of food and drinks in Sarawak, particularly Kuching is somewhat different. Here are the food you might never heard of when you browse through the food menu:

• Sarawak Laksa. Sarawak Laksa is the most noticably Sarawakian food in Kuching. It was a favourite among Sarawakian from Chinese and Malay decent. It has a base of Sambal belacan, sour tamarind, garlic, galangal, lemon grass and coconut milk, topped with omelette strips, chicken strips, prawns, fresh coriander and optionally lime. Ingredients such as bean sprouts, (sliced) fried tofu or other seafood are not traditional but are sometimes added. Non-Halal Sarawak Laksa can be found at most Chinese coffee shops while Halal Sarawak Laksa can be found at most Malay coffee shops (and some Mamak too). Halal and non-Halal Sarawak Laksa don't have so much difference, except with the usage of halal chicken meat, and the cooking utensils used by the cook. Chinese-version of Sarawak Laksa has less thicker gravy but rich with condiments and toppings, while Malay-version of Sarawak Laksa has thicker gravy but more 'taugeh' (or beansprouts).

• Kolok Mee. Kolok Mee is a type of noodle dish commonly found in Sarawak. It is served throughout the day - for breakfast, lunch or even supper (though some eateries only serve kolok mee until noon because supplies run out). It is made of egg noodle, blanched in water that looks like instant noodle and served in a light sauce with some condiments like sliced pork, chicken cutlets, minced meat or sometimes (quite rare) shredded beef. The difference between Kolok Mee and Wantan Mee, which is popular in the Peninsula, is that Kolok Mee is not drenched in dark soy sauce and water is not added to the noodles when served. Kolok mee comes in two common flavors: plain or seasoned with red sauce (cooks tend to seasoned kolok mee with red sauce when they are served with pork). Occasionally, diners can also request their kolok mee to be seasoned with soy sauce, to give the dish a darker appearance and enhance its saltiness.

• Mi Sapi. Mi Sapi is a gravy-ish version of Kolok Mee. It is garnished and prepared just like Kolok Mee with a slight difference in cooking method. The noodle can be somewhat egg noodle been used in Kolok Mee, or Mee Pok (or mi sanggul - a curly type of noodle similar to Angelhair Spaghetti).

• Manok Pansoh. Manok Pansoh is the most common dish among Iban. It is a chicken dish which normally be eaten with white rice. Chicken pieces are cut and stuffed into the bamboo together with other ingredients like mushrooms, lemongrass, tapioca leaves etc and cooked over an open fire - similar to the way lemang is cooked. This natural way of cooking seals in the flavours and produces astonishingly tender chicken with a gravy perfumed with lemongrass and bamboo. Manok Pansoh cannot be found easily in all restaurants and coffee shops. Some restaurants require advanced booking of Manok Pansoh dish prior to your arrival.

• Manok Kacangma. Manok Kacangma is a Chinese type of dish which has grown popularity among all races in Sarawak. It is a chicken dish which normally be eaten with white rice. Kacangma is a type of herb which normally being used for medical and healing purposes. It is believed that woman who eat Manok Kacangma can enjoy ease menses. As for Malay, they normally cook Manok Kacangma without wine, while as for Iban and Chinese, they squinch in wine for more delicate taste. You can try Manok Kacangma when you eat 'Nasi Campur' during lunch hours in Kuching. However, it is extremely hard to find a coffee shop or restaurant who serve one.

• Umai. Umai is a raw fish salad popular among various ethnic groups of Sarawak, especially the Melanaus. In fact, umai is a traditional working lunch for the Melanau fishermen. Umai is prepared raw from freshly caught fish, iced but not frozen. Main species used include Mackerel, Bawal Hitam and Umpirang. It is made mainly of thin slivers of raw fish, thinly sliced onions, chilli, salt and the juice of sour fruits like lime or assam. It is usually accompanied by a bowl of toasted sago pearls instead of rice. Its simplicity makes it a cinch for fishermen to prepare it aboard their boats. Umai Jeb, a raw fish salad without other additional spices, is famous among Bintulu Melanaus. However, it is rarely prepared in Kuching. You can try umai when you eat 'Nasi Campur' during lunch hours in Kuching. Most coffee shops, especially Malay/Bumiputera-owned one, served umai daily for 'Nasi Campur'.

• Midin. The locals greatly indulge in jungle fern such as the midin (quite similar to pucuk paku that is popular in the Peninsular). Midin is much sought after for its crisp texture and great taste. Midin is usually served in two equally delicious ways - fried with either garlic or belacan. You can try Midin when you eat 'Nasi Campur' during lunch hours in Kuching. Most coffee shops, served Midin daily for 'Nasi Campur'.

• Bubur Pedas. Unlike many other porridge that we know, Bubur Pedas is cooked with a specially prepared paste. It is quite spicy thanks to its ingredients, which include spices, turmeric, lemon grass, galangal, chillies, ginger, coconut and shallots. Like the famous Bubur Lambuk of Kuala Lumpur, Bubur Pedas is exclusive dish prepared during the month of Ramadan and served during the breaking of fast. So don't expect to eat Bubur Pedas at anytime you want!

• Mi Jawa. Mi Jawa in Kuching or Sarawak in general is somewhat different from the one served in Peninsular Malaysia, or even at its birthplace Java island. It is a thick egg yellow noodle served with tiny slice of chicken and a sprinkle of 'daun sup' (or bay leaves). Some coffee shops serve a 'special' type of Mi Jawa (which you need to add from 50 cents to RM1.50) with an additional few sticks of Satay (Chicken and/or Beef). Mi Jawa is normally served at Malay/Mamak coffee shops.

• Roti Corned Beef. Roti Canai is a widely-known Peninsular-origin of Indian decent food of Malaysia. However, Sarawakian has modified one type of Roti Canai which you might not find it at Peninsular Malaysia, be it at Mamak stall or Malay coffee shops. It is Roti Corned Beef. It is a 'roti canai', with corned beef filling. Long before announcement of Gateway-brand corned beef as not Halal by local religious department, Roti Corned Beef is widely available at Malay and Mamak coffee shops. It can be bought for as low as RM2 per piece due to cheap canned corned beef. However, since the Gateway-brand corned beef was officially considered not Halal, Roti Corned Beef has lost its popularity and if it does exist, the price can shoot up, ranging from RM4 to RM5 per piece.

• Nasik Aruk. Nasik Aruk is a traditional Sarawakian Malay fried rice. Unlike Nasi Goreng, Nasik Aruk does not use any oil to fry the rice. The ingredients are garlic, onion and anchovies, fried to perfection with very little oil and then the cook will put the rice in. The rice must be fried for longer time (compared to frying rice for Nasi Goreng) for the smokey/slightly-burnt taste to absorb into the rice. It is a common to see Nasik Aruk in the food menu list at Malay and Mamak coffee shops and stalls.

Sarawak, particularly Kuching, has revolutionized its food culture since it's forming with Malaysia on 1963. Wide variety of Peninsular Malaysian food has been part of Sarawakian food for example, Roti Canai, Nasi Lemak, Murtabak and so on. Kuching has also slowly anticipate broader food selection to feed the challenging tastebuds such as Tom Yam, Nasi Paprik and Pattaya (originally from Thailand), Bakso and Soto (originally from Indonesia) and Nasi Ayam Singapura (originally from Singapore). Chinese restaurants have also been daring to try more exquisite cuisine from North China, Korea and Vietnam. Western food has also been widely accepted in Sarawak, especially Kuching. Fastfood chains are also growing, such as KFC, McDonalds, Kenny Roger's Roasters, Secret Recipe and Marrybrown. America's buffet has also taken place in Sarawakian's heart such as Hartz Chicken Buffet. However, traditional Nasi Campur and traditional type of breakfast, high tea and dinner are always part of Sarawakian. It's getting common to see more modernized and educated generation of Kuchingites slowly adapting Western food culture such as eating pasta or pizza for dinner.

Dietary restriction guides

As a guide to Muslim visitors, some of the restaurants serving Chinese food are non-halal, unless stated halal or appear to handover the food preparation to Muslim cooks or sellers. Restaurants who clearly stated pork or/and non-halal substances in their food menu (like using wine for cooking, frog and snakes) are the one you should avoid to. The easiest way to look for halal restaurants are by looking at their halal certificate. Ensure that they display halal certificate produced by JAIS Sarawak, JAKIM or HDC Malaysia. Sometimes the restaurant owners choose not to display it, so please demand the certificate if they claimed that they serve halal food.

For vegeterian visitors, always look for the one who clearly stating vegeterian food only. Some vegeterian meals served can still contain non-vegeterian substances like anchovies, chicken stock and lard. Please check with the restaurant owners for confirmation on their cooking substances.

Budget

• Finest Cafe, at 新时代广场 Travilion (located between the landmark of Kuching Big White Cat and HSBC building). Finest Cafe is at the same row as the Great Eastern Insurance Building. Kolo Mee and 色香味小档 stalls cook assorted hawker food, especially their 'Curry Mee' (very spicy) and Cantonese style 'home-cook fast food 杂菜饭', are all heavenly! Hazati stall offers halal 'Malay-style chicken rice' of juicy tender chicken meat that comes with 3 different sauces; black pepper, butter and salad. 'Boneless steam chicken' with home-made sesame sauce has just been added into the menu. Malay Corner stall offers great range of finger-licking halal good food and their 'Special Laksa' is a real treat for your adventurous taste buds!

• Chong Choon, Jln. Abell (opposite Maybank). One of Kuching's two famous laksa joints. Usually sold out by noon.

• Choon Hui, Jln. Ban Hock (near Grand Continental Hotel). The other famous laksa joint. Spicy and popular, get here before 10 AM.

• Bishopsgate Coffeeshop, Carpenter Street. Famous for what may be decades already, the Vinegar 'Kolo Mee' and Pork 'Spare-part' soup is what people line up for everyday. Also famous is the man who runs the stall - he is a colorful character who takes your order like a drill sergeant. It opens for breakfast and lunch, but to avoid the crowds, its best to go around 'Brunch' time. When you get a seat, expect to wait awhile for your food. And while you wait, try their excellent 'Teh-C Peng Special' (Strong iced milk-tea with a dark sweet syrup)

• Suan Chicken Rice, Jln. Tunku Abdul Rahman (next to Pizza Hut). A popular lunch-time joint where the office-crowd go for Hainanese Chicken Rice.

• Open Air Market, Jln. Market (opposite Electra House Shopping Centre and near 'Padang Merdeka' Police Station). Despite the name, the place is actually covered. It has a wide variety of stalls serving Malay and Chinese cuisine. Their most popular stall is the one serving Beef Noodles and 'Sio Bi' (pork dumplings). Also popular is the fresh porridge and seafood stalls. But beware, this area is not the cleanest of places so order your food from only the most popular stalls.

• Lau Ya Keng Food Court, Carpenter Street (just after the Harmony Arch, opposite a Chinese temple). A simple food court that has been around for decades and is very popular with locals - breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can buy very decent Kolo mee and Sarawak Laksa here. But a lot of people come here for the fish-ball soup and famous pork satay that opens in the early afternoon.

• Hock King Cafeteria * Jalan Ban Hock. Mr Hock and the staff serve up very basic, but quite generous meals though out the day. Mr Hock is one of the better hosts in Kuching and is fluent in multiple lanuages and will do almost anything to make your stay as comfortable as possible. Many local celebrities, such as LGBT Australian volleyballer and underwear model Ryan Jon Dunn stop by for lunch reqularly as Hock King is well connected in the local sporting & entartainment scenes.

• KY Cafe, Sekama Road (A corner shop opposite Hollywood KTV Lounge, about 10 minutes walk from the Kuching City South Council building). Run by a band of three brothers, they serve what is arguably the best 'Kolo Mee' in town. Characterized by being served in an orange plastic bowl, this 'Kolo Mee' tastes a little bit on the sweet side and has the distinction of tasting much better towards the end. They also have excellent wanton soup.

• Ceria Cafe, Satok. This shop served best halal Sarawak Laksa in the city. If you demand for omelette strips in your laksa, ask for special which is a mere RM1 addition to the regular price. You can try their Mee Jawa and 'kopi keras' too.

• Bismillah Cafe, Satok & 7th Mile. If you love Indian and Mamak food, try this one. They serve good Nasi Beriyani, roti canai and teh tarik.

• Sepinang Sari Cafe & Restaurant, Satok next to Carpet Shop sells the best Mi Sapi HjSalleh and usually operates from 6.00 AM to 5.30PM daily. You will also find delisous Laksa Sarawak and Mi Jawa you tast once and always wanted. Bon apetite.

• Singapore Chicken Rice, branch at Padungan, Satok and Kota Samarahan. They serve excellent chicken rice comparable to other established chicken rice shop (including food chain of The Chicken Rice Shop). Other side dishes are baby kailan in oyster sauce and beansprouts.

• Benteng Satok, Satok. There are more than 30 stalls here and it's open until 4am. A wide variety of food are served here, mostly Malay food. Choose the stall wisely because many stalls tend to serve same type of food.

• Jambatan Satok, Satok. This is the best place to try halal grilled chicken wings and grilled ikan sebelah. A total of 8 stalls make up the area with variety of Malay and Chinese food. Muslim visitors might not need to be afraid of their halal status because all of the stalls serve halal food.

• Kubah Ria, Gita. This area comprises of more than 20 stalls. They serve best halal kolo mee and mi sapi of the town. Don't forget to try the grilled chicken wings and local pizza chain of Pizza Ria. The pizzas served at Pizza Ria are so cheap that it costs only RM3.50 per quarter slice! It's cheesy and delicious too!

• Rojak Kuchei Batu Lintang, Batu Lintang. This place served the best rojak India and chicken rojak in the town. Don't be surprised to see a lot of visitors during morning time because this place is constantly crowded with people from the nearby offices during breakfast time.

• The Big Onion, Taman Sri Sarawak. This is quite a new place, budget but not losing its luxuriousness, WiFi ready, comes with chinese food, malay style food and not to forget western cuisine. You will be suprised to when you compare the prices in the menu with the environment it provide. It is just located behind the shoplots opposite Hilton. Pork is not on the menu.

Mid-range

• Khatulistiwa, Jln. Tunku Abdul Rahman (next to Holiday Inn). This distinctive circular hut modeled on a Bidayuh skull house is popular with tourists, and with reason. There's a nice, breezy open-air restaurant downstairs, serving up local and Western favorites including a decent Sarawak laksa and open 24 hours to boot. At night, the hut's upper floors open up as a bar and club, with DJs spinning the night away, though you can also take your meal up there in the evenings.

• Benson Seafood, No. 112 Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman, tel. 082-255262. A riverside restaurant that specializes in fresh seafood Chinese style. It is well-established and don't be surprised to see them catering to groups of tourists.

• Pinoy Grill Cafe, No. 143 Jln Pandungan (next to Pandungan Police Station), tel. 012-8965651. A nice and cosy place that serves delicious Filipino food. The fried whole pork leg is popular.

• Hong Kong Noodle House, Jln Pandungan, (opposite Bing! Cafe). Standard HK fare like roast duck on rice or noodles. They also serve local Chinese dishes and is open for lunch and dinner.

• SideWalk Cafe, Green Heights (Towards airport, on the right-hand side of the BDC flyover/roundabout). Alfresco style western food away from the city near the airport. Its only open in the evenings till late and is popular with locals.

• Mango Tree. You can be sure of a truly authentic Thai experience from the moment you arrive here. Relax in their elegant air conditioned dining room, or dine alfresco in our traditional Thai garden, and choose from a menu that is simply bursting with the vibrant colours, flavours and aromas of the finest Thai cuisine.

• Selera Asam Payak, Satok. If you like to try traditional Malay food, head on to this restaurant. They serve good traditional Malay food at reasonable price.

• Oriental Kitchen, Satok. This restaurant serve variety of Malay and Chinese food. It's halal so Muslim visitors can enjoy this one.

• Hartz Chicken Buffet, Satok & Sarawak Plaza. This buffet restaurant is a franchise to All-American Chicken Buffet of Texas, USA. You can eat as much as you want for as low as RM17.70 per person! Savour the crispy & spicy fried chicken, wide range of salads, mashed potatoes, cakes, breads, ice-creams and fruits. Don't exit the restaurant until you have fulled your stomach!

Splurge

• Dayang Cafe, Satok. It looks like a budget cafe place, but don't be fooled by its looks. The food is a variety of Nasi Campur and roti canai. It might drain out your wallet, but if you love to splurge and being spendthrift, try this one. The old woman who guards the cash machine might look furious and loves to overcharge you, but sometimes can be helpful if you ask for something.

• Green Bento Company, Delivery Service. Visit website for menu, www.greenbento.com

• The Junk, Wayang Street (opposite Fata Hotel), tel. 082-259450. A great restaurant within walking distance from the waterfront that serves Western/Italian fare. It is very popular with both locals and expats alike for its imaginative deco that resembles a mix of Colonial Chinese with lots of antiques adorning the place. The portions are huge and the Lamb Shanks and Fisherman's Basket seem to be the most popular. Bookings are advisable if you have a large group.

• Bla Bla Bla, Wayang Street (a few shops down from The Junk), tel. 082-233944. A Chinese restaurant which is opened by the same restaurateurs as The Junk. It quickly became an institution for fine Chinese cuisine in Kuching shortly after it opened in 2005. The interior is designed with a Balinese theme and some of the dishes they are famous for are the Ostrich-rolls, Soft-shell Crabs, and Drunken Duck. Bookings are advisable.

• The Living Room, Wayang Street (just beside Bla Bla Bla).tel. 012-8880827. 6pm - 12:00am. A third chain by the same restaurateurs as The Junk. It has a nice backyard with fountains suitable for people who are just looking for some relaxation in a busy city. It is a must for people who are looking for pure relaxation. Food from The Junk and Bla bla bla can be ordered over here too. There are some good selections of wines as well. Remember not to miss the famous living room cocktail.

• See Good Food Centre, Off Ban Hock Road (opposite Hua Kuok Inn), tel. 082-251397. A very casual and laid-back restaurant that serves excellent and very fresh seafood. It is very popular with the locals and doesn't take reservations. Therefore it is best to get there early in the evenings to secure a table and minimize the waiting time.

• Top Spot Food Court, Jln. Bukit Mata (Top floor of 'Taman Kereta' Carpark, opposite Tun Jugah Shopping Mall). Has a wide range of food stalls ranging from the budget to the pricey. Most locals and tourists come here for the fresh seafood stalls which are on the pricey side. Most of the stalls serve good food, but beware; always ask to see a menu with prices - some stalls have been known to 'accidentally over-charge' tourists.

• Ristorante Beccari, Jln. Tun Abang Haji (inside Merdeka Palace Hotel), tel. 082-270808. This is Kuching's best and most authentic Italian restaurant. The wood-fired pizzas are excellent.

• Li Garden Chinese Restaurant, Jln. Abang Abdul Rahim (inside Hock Lee Centre, 1st Floor), tel. 082-340785. A popular Chinese restaurant that serves the best Peking Duck in Kuching.

• Waterfront Kiosk, Jln. Tunku Abdul Rahman. If you love to have a drink or two while sightseeing the Sarawak River, this is the place to look up to. They have wide range of food and drinks, but be extra careful, the food are pricey due to influx of tourists who stay at the nearby luxurious hotels like Hilton, Crowne Plaza and Holiday Inn. Don't try their Sarawak Laksa because it doesn't taste good. However, other food tastes OK.

• Restoran Barok, Kampung Sinjan. This is a place for the one who loves to eat in beautiful surrounding but doesn't bother with the food taste and price. The place virtually don't have any regular visitors due to their aweful service. The food are pricey and tasteless.

• Serapi Corner, 7th Mile. Fancy a 'sauna' of a restaurant? This is a place you can head to. They serve Peninsular Malaysia's Malay style of food. Their specialty is Ikan Keli Bakar Bersambal (Grilled Catfish with Sambal). They tend to overcharge you, so check for the price list. If you don't mind waiting for hours, try this one too. They have a view of hilly road to kill your time.

• Magenta, Jalan Nanas. Beautiful colonial building with restful oriental ambiance with dreamy romantic atmosphere. Good menu with large portions. Speciality is lamb shank with mashed potato which sounds bland but is very tasty. Bit on the pricey side so is good for a treat once in a while. You will need a taxi to get there as it's a bit outside the city centre.

source taken from: http://www.guidepicker.com/